Currently in Haida Gwaii, this is a diary of my times spent and the people that I meet. To most it will be a surf update, to others a spiritual assessment, and definitely fun to all.

Monday, February 23, 2009

This Bird was in Paradise

All I can say is fantastico! For those who have been lucky enough to visit sunny Sayulita, Nayarit, Mexico I must concur that is is one of the finest little towns that I have been lucky enough to stay in completely unable to speak the language. My spanish was piquito at best, and nobody seemed to care. The locals were full of zest and fun, service was incredible and the food.... ahhh the food. The fish tacos, the chorizo, the 10lb fucking burrito! And don't forget that little spice of life called tequila... aye carumba! The surf was not the epic adventure that we had expected, but for the newbies, it was perfect. For the aspiring pros is was still perfect. Nice little 2-4 foot open-ocean swell provided for some great rides with nothing on but a rashie and board shorts, and of course a very broad grin.
Arriba me Hombre!!



Ok, one more drink and I'm going back in surfing... or perhaps I'll just wet myself in bed. These octuple margaritas ended most surf sessions with true style.





Burp.







Very busy waves. I was happy to have no real localism around me and found the surfers to be respectful. Of course I gave them every single wave they went for, but still found myself in a few rollers and got the tan lines to prove it. I did run over one kook, but no major injuries and luckily he didn't fuck up my board. The only real incident was a gringo that dropped in on a local who ran him right over. He then proceeded to paddle back out, take the guys board, push it all the way back into the beach, making the gringo swim all the way to shore where he showed him his board which had the fin box blown out of it. The local gave his board back and motioned "finish your session... I'll be right here when you're done" and sure enough the guy surfed for another half hour and came back with some cash for the guy. Good to know we can all get along, or at least do what's right in these times where wave demand and supply is pretty much at a saturation point.




Off the beaten path and nobody in sight. A nice place to wear nothing but a smile.











Ninos that absolutely ruled the beach. These 6-12 year old kids ripped!!! Apparently 70% of Mexico's pros come from this small town of 3000 amigos and every day we saw professional surfing at it's finest in all conditions. Very proud to have surfed with these guys and felt very honored to have them hoop my rides as much as I hooped theirs.













Agricultural crop circles from 14, 000 feet.





























Sunday, February 01, 2009

Stoked

Well, surf has been an entire spectrum of swell from flat-fucking-calm to blown out, finishing off with crazy epic. Today's pic is actually one of the more mellow days with a nice 4 foot pushing in for a longboard sesh. This weekend saw 20+ surfers out for some of what we guess was 12 ft on the outside sessions. Surf shop has been really popular with the islanders which is nice. Lots of ladies out on the wave, hooping and hollorin'. Feeling really blessed to have so many waves these last 4 days of 3hr+ times in some frigid bliss. Time to stoke the fire... lots of stoke around here.