Currently in Haida Gwaii, this is a diary of my times spent and the people that I meet. To most it will be a surf update, to others a spiritual assessment, and definitely fun to all.

Thursday, October 02, 2008

All I do is Surf...


Another Beautiful sunset in paradise. Surf season is among us again with the good weather of our First Nations' summer, we've had the best of both worlds with some wicked macking swell and glassy days full of sun. Makes you almost want to drop off the wetsuit for a bit, but no doubt my little weenie would fall off if I did, so until then we can survive without the hoodie and gloves. Neat stuff on the waves as we had an enourmous bloom of jellyfish that completely littered the beach with 10's of thousands of the little creatures. We all got stung and everyone had tingly faces and feet and hands for the night. And no, we didn't pee on it. Other than that, been fixing up the house and getting things ready for the winter season. I'm moving out of the hotel and putting the shop into my shop in the back yard and looking forward to really sprucing up my house. It's gained $30k in value since I've owned it according to the insurance values, so I'm optimistic that will continue for the duration of the time I'm fixing it up. Looking forward to learning all about the world of the reno.

Fleet of rental boards that I purchased on my trip to Victoria last month. I now have over 30 boards in my quiver. Addicted much...


Not much of a shot, but some perspective of the number of surfers in the water in Tofino. It was like a fucking slalom course going around these kooks. Kinda feel bad running over the little girl on the boogie board, but a bit of a perspective for everone that surfing is inherantly dangerous for everyone and when going in the water, you need to be super cautious of everyone and your equipment. If you think of taking up the sport, know the rules for your safety and that of those around you.



'Fred' Lucy's board and my stick for the weekend trip to Tofino. Love this old beater...




These are the rules. Love the sign. These are posted at all locations in Tofino and I think we should do something to the same effect here. It keeps the water safe and I would be really upset if more happened than already does.






Me and Lucy just off of Chestermans' beach in Tofino. Very nice to have the burning sun for a session. Been missing this girl since her departure to Victoria to return to school, but these little visits have enabled us to re-establish our relationship and really get a feel for living both the city and rural life, with a hint of vacation time. We both agree that Masset is definitely home for us, but the city time is great to experience. She's currently up visiting with a broken foot, so I'm doing the naughty nurse thing for a couple weeks. Sad it had to be this way, but it has been great to see her and know that she's well taken care of.