Currently in Haida Gwaii, this is a diary of my times spent and the people that I meet. To most it will be a surf update, to others a spiritual assessment, and definitely fun to all.

Wednesday, December 31, 2008

Family Gathering

Here are my folks doing all the dirty work during their visit for Christmas after a session of food gathering. The Alucian low system over Alaska hits us every christmas and in true fashion with the big waves and storms come the scallops. Another big wash up hit us at just the right time, and I happened to be in the right spot at the right time to get 100 scallops and a schwack of cockles. Very nice to have this in the freezer for later munching!

Tuesday, December 30, 2008

Birds of a Feather

This eagle knows there's food around.
A few beautiful trumpeter swans that decided to join us for christmas this year. There has been an amazing array of birds around with the seasonal changes and winds, such as the swans, shorebirds, heron, geese and a bunch of ducks I couldn't imagine trying to tell you about. Of course the majestic eagles as well.
Ok, so another little story for you...
We go out surfing on Boxing day with mum as the swell model was looking like the biggest waves of the year, and they provided. It was a good 12-16 foot wave, if not 20 on the outside. We went to the hiellen to see if there was any refuge from the break and sure enough, there was just a little. As I'm checking the waves from shore there is a massive crew of half-ton trucks waiting for the tide to drop to go out for the scallop run and see what's going on. Meanwhile, a few kids are playing on a log just on top of the tideline and this rogue wave shows up and sweeps the kids out to sea. Everyone goes running for the hills and these 3 kids (4,6,and 9) are swept out to sea. I throw my coffee and dive in grabbing one under each arm and pulling another one with my hand. Freaked me out to all get out. As if this wasn't a reminder of how severe the swell was I ended up going out and paddling into the hugest waves of my life. Sitting on the outside, nearly a mile offshore, I dropped into an apartment building-sized wave and ended up riding for a few seconds as I must have been travelling nearly 80km/h and just exploded, losing my board and ripping my leash off my leg. So now, here I am, a mile off shore, 20 foot waves, a rip current that nearly killed 3 kids and nobody in sight. I relax. I'm in it now, I've got to get out. the rip is pulling me closer and closer to Alaska, and I am pretty confident there isn't a rescue boat anywhere near. To make it a little less dramatic, I did end up swimming back to shore, diving under massive wave after massive wave until 30 min later I ended back where I started. To think I was crazy enough to grab my board and do it again, I just had to do it. 1 more scary as hell ride and I was out. It wasn't worth it. Ironically, I had spoke to my mother about life insurance on the way out. Perhaps, this was a time when you need to listen to instincts and obey them. There is something to be said about instincts, spidey senses as you will, and their influence on your decisions. I will now pay much closer to these feelings as I believe that they will direct me on a proper path, the one that is predermined for me and a basis for all the previous decisions I've made. Well, all for now, thanks to the powers that be for helping me survive, and others to survive mother natures powerful and beautiful energy.



Friday, December 26, 2008

Happy Whatever


Well, merry whatever to all of you. Here is pic taken during recent swells. Been some macking huge stuff over the last couple days after a much needed rest of the back. Gotta say it was a little bit of a long wait for everyone else who do nothing but surf! 3 weeks of surfless times is really quite a bit for this time of year, and now with the freezing temperature it has been a godsend to have that fuzzy pelt on my face. Have a nice new years!

Sunday, December 21, 2008

Done Like Dinner

Well, surf has been non-existent for the last 2 weeks and I'm glad. I fucked up my back in a meeting of the North Beach Night Surfer's Association meeting when we all hit the surf, which was a good 6 foot, at midnight of the full moon of December. What a surreal experience it is every time. There were a good half-dozen of us crazies out in it and with virtually no sense of perception; sight, hearing or feeling, it was like a dream state where you're in between the lucidity of a dream and the realization of where you are. Amazing. Anyhoo, between the pounding surf, building the house and running the new chainsaw, I managed to become disabled. Well, after a few weeks of proper medication and the love of a good woman, I bounced back and am getting ready for the next swell and getting some more wood to save us from this deep freeze we're in now! Anyhoo, until then, here is some pics to make you jealous. Pictures of a few scallops I gathered out on the beach on a leisurely drive. Amazing hockeypuck sized scallops to munch on with too much butter and garlic. mmmmm....


Sunday, December 07, 2008

Hanging out in waist high



Some smaller waves today followed by some great weather. It's been 10 degrees nearly every afternoon and only 4 at night. What a difference from the rest of Canada and it's imminent winter coming. Love this shot of looking at the waves coming in and the direction of them. The force of these little waves is still incredible and seeing the newbies out on them with full smiles and noses full of snot really makes the time in the surf amazing. A tribe of people going through great lengths and expense to be in the position to have these experiences with nature makes me feel like a part of a very large picture that appreciates nature and the association we have with her.

Sweet smell of Cedar



Nice pic of Lucy up on her last visit in front of a nice pile of red cedar. Unforunately I ordered Yellow cedar which is a very different sort of burning wood, but nonetheless, this will make for a nice stackwall project in the spring. Looking to make this beautiful pile of wood a sauna in the back yard. Some amazing huge rounds here though with this fire killed tree. Bone dry and burns hotter than a half-fucked fox in a forest fire. We'll keep a little around for my poor delicate mother so she doesn't freeze on her visit to the islands for Christmas. Looking forward to the first christmas in my house with some great friends food and family. Hope everyone has a great holiday season.

Tuesday, December 02, 2008

Infuckingcredible


If you can believe the feeling of being on an olympic size swimming pool rushing by you at an incredible pace.

What are these strange snakes...



Bull Kelp. These huge air bladders have been washing up for a while, cleaning out the big shelf we have just off of the beach. They often will attatch to rock reefs, and even scallops and barnacles to keep solid. The winter storms releases them and sends them into the shallows to eventually wash up on shore and provide natural fertilization to the soil, and for those who venture out with a half ton truck and bring some home for their garden!
This mound was nearly 8 feet high and went on for over 20 miles long!


Anyone notice where I parked my car?



A little idea of what was to come. This was 1 week previous to the other photos.