Day 127

Did you catch the licence plate number on that vehicle ma'am? Didn't think so. I have to dedicate this log to my 94' Toyota 4-Runner. This girl I got for a decent price and she's been all over these islands and got me into and out of a lot of trouble. I do wash the old doll every time I drive on the beach... well most times I go on the beach. If I didn't she'd rust out from underneath me from all of the salt. As it is, I can see the cancer accellerated much more so than it would be in any other part of the country. It is a lovely color match with the sand to kinda get away with it.

Well by my calculations today was day 127 of surfing this season for McQuade. Not too bad when you think I've only been here for a little over 200. Granted I've surfed shit days that I didn't even invite locals for fear of insulting them, but putting the time in is the key to anything. I feel extremely rewarded for the energy expended and for the skills developed. It really is a steep learning curve with the surfing because when you mess up, you have to paddle right back out into it. It's not like bowling where you grab another ball and go, you have to spend another 15-45 minutes of power paddling and bitch slapping, getting back into place to try it again, no doubt failing again, and again, and again... But the 15 seconds of glory is worth the time spent. And as more time elapses, more beautiful rides come to you, blessing you again and again.

Scallop gathering has been dialed in as well. I've learned a few secrets from the old timers at the beach that I always chat with and found myself with a meal of scallops and cockles nearly every day I go out. I'll share my secret stash with any visitors on their way and maybe introduce you to some of the gnarliest, saltiest dogs you've ever met.

As it is right now, I'm getting ready for the seasonal shift and switching to the kiteboard and possibly a little less impact with the golf. I was very fortunate to not recieve any major injuries over the season given the risks that were taken and the sheer size of these waves. Thank you powers that be.

The bottom couple of pics were from the bushskills lesson we got last weekend in the giant bog of north island. Apparently this was a huge ranch back in the 20's and some of the homesteads still are around. I haven't seen them yet, but 3rd generation cattle still roam feral on the east beach. Amazing that they've survived this long. No doubt another testimonial to the fertility of the islands.


Cher picking some labrador tea and examining other endemic species in our amazing bog of north island.

Treebeard (johnny) getting our emergency shelter ready. Looks like the emergency hat is well secured.

The Secret

Millions of mollusks washed up as a result of a massive swell this Thursday.

Well this sea anenome got the ride of a lifetime I'm sure. Fixing himself on this scallop shell and getting caught in some of the wickedest waves of the season, he ended up waaay up on north beach with virtually everything else. I was a bit late, but apparently the scallops were a plenty on Thursday. I was still nursing the wounds and bruises of a mighty abusive 10 foot surf day. I just could not get my game on in the big waves this time and ended up getting worked. Some days are just better than others.

Today on the other hand was great. My first time in a surf kayak with my faithful leader Johnny. Zero experience didn't hamper things as we set off out into the chuck and trying to topple the waves before they toppled us. By far the most fearful I've been in a very, very long time. I ended up dropping into a nice 4 footer, riding it to shore, and retired undefeated, and still upright. I quickly grabbed my board and proceeded to do what I feel most comfortable doing. It was a definite 4+ hour day today with a multitude of 4-6 foot left handers and I am bagged. Tommorow our training group is doing a nice 15km hike into a patch of mystical old-growth for a lesson on more bush skills. These weekends have been so informative and I really hope that I get to be part of the Moresby Camp future in some capacity.

So... what is the secret.... I think I'll make you wait. It's worth it!

Spring has sprung

A few new visitors to the islands. Or perhaps they're old residents. Whatever the case, these little guys have been making my mornings start a little earlier than last week. The songbirds have certainly started arriving and in full force. I can't remember the last time I heard the morning doves around, but the songs ring clear most mornings now.
Happy St. Paddy's day to you all. I trust everyone had a good time and managed to find a green beer somewhere. I was surprised at the lack of pomp and circumstance around here. I ended up having dinner with my buddy Art at our friend David and Michael's innaugural saturday dinner fiesta. What an amazing fare of gourmet foods. Bacon wrapped prunes.. ya I know, they're better than they sound (Michael makes his own bacon). All of the sushi, racks of lamb and pastas were home made and succulent to find a word. Afterwards I ended up lighting 100 sambuca shots and teaching how to drink them lit. I think I burned my eyebrows, but the crowd seemed to be entertained by the trick. A really good night for everyone
So, now the beat goes on with more of the same ol'. I got a few scallops today on the beach with the northern winds coming in, and I figure tomorrow is going to be wicked. Surf is projecting huge stuff for this week, so spring break for Lone Wolf McQuade may not be in Cancun, but it's certainly springing here.


I can see you... can you see the baby moon snail in the eyes... Basalt is a very soft stone that seems to have all kinds of these little holes all through it on Tow Hill. I've found a variety of species in them.

White bands of limestone make this stone a much looked for commodity. It's called 'karst' I believe, which is apparently a very rare type of stone that dissolves very quickly. On the islands they are trying to preserve areas of karst deposits due to the rarity of them. I find it funny that they chuck out the old growth like nobody's business but if you find a rock that fizzes when you piss on it, Keep that sacred!!

Adaptation

Danger! Skater chicks on the road! Another random act of funnyness. These signs are taking a beating, or should I say an upgrade. Good thing the DOT only visits us once a month or two. Actually, it's pretty funny when they do come into town because the word gets on the street quickly and everyone with a rusty old beater ready to be impounded, or Jen (who has no back window) or guys that habitually drink and drive are notified to stay off the road, usually by the authorities. I am very amazed at the kids in this town and their resistance to conform or respect any bit of authority. I had a 13 year old kid all but challenge me to a fight because I got ragged him out for giving my swim team the finger through the window. Can you imagine... the kids were 10 and unders and this dude is flipping the bird. A failure in our education system or his neuronal system... some system is failing.
The truth is, times are tough in Masset. The town is tough. Racism has existed towards the native population for years. And more recently the 'hippies' are put down and teased in the schools. It is a serious problem. Can you imagine, being belittled in your class because you eat organic food??? Sounds far out, but very true. I've been confronted because of where I live. We residents of Tow Hill have a very difficult path ahead of us as far as being a part of the island community. It's all started by forming our own community of like minded people, and looking at the populations as a whole, using the education at hand and simply living simply.
I mean the islands are a community of primary resourse rapists. The fish, trees, and virtually all of the land is being bought and sold so readily nowadays. Even the Haida Nation is expediting the process. All consultations with the natives used to be versed and focused on concious decision making and conservation in mind, but industry now has the native vote in hand. Not what you would expect. As I watch trees 10 feet in diameter float away on a barge for china, I can't help but question what went wrong in this deal.
Well, sad as it is, the beauty is still here. As rough as the town may be, the sand is still soft. The kids may curse and fight, but their dedication to each other is thick as their blood. Something to be said for that. And as Darwin stated, the key to survival is adaptation.

Tales from the wet side

So just a few shots to give a little more perspective on my life here on Haida Gwaii as a self-proclaimed beach bum. The first pic is a nice peeler about 6 foot. Next is a fun little ride in a short shore break and then of course the anticipation. This is my buddy 'surfer jeff'. I was laughing as I watched him run down the beach to the surf. EVERY surfer runs to the water. Without fail, if you watch the true surfers they all run as soon as they hit the sand. Not sure why, perhaps trying to get there first, trying to make sure you don't miss the waves. Both of these rationalle are silly because waves take hours to dissapear and around here... well only the seals are fighting you for the waves. And man, did we have a big sucker floating around us this last few days. We thought it was a sea lion from the size of it. It had a neck like a football player and as bad an attitude. The guy swam around me for hours yesterday and even came up within 10 feet to smash his hind flipper on the water and splash me... I'm not sure if he was playing or letting me know it was his kelp bed. I wonder if they think we're one of them or not. It is the season for the winter chinook to be running through here, so I'm guessing he was making sure we weren't in competition for lunch. And seeing the chunk that these guys take out of a salmon, I"m hoping my left leg isn't on the menu.... eeesh.

Speaking of which, apparently down island they had a sea lion (800lbs) walk right up on the beach and onto the road! They tried to shoo it back in the water, but after observation there was a pod of killer whales in the distance that had probably chased him in. Another wild time in the middle of nowhere.

Surfing has been up and down. It's been so-so surf lately, but I have seemed to really dial in. I'm riding a lot more face now and really getting my cutbacks and even landing a few huge airs off the waves. I've managed to really get some speed on the drops and even ran over another guy yesterday (he is always in the way). It was quite funny how I had explained to the boy about dropping in and then demonstrated, he was very attentive, so much so that he forgot to get the hell out of the way! He (with eyes wide) dives under the wave and throws his board right in front of me. I end up running over the board and now he's got a slice from my fin.

Speaking of posers... I've been asked to guide a bunch of professional surfers from 'Surfer' magazine who are visiting the islands next month to do a feature article on cold water surfing. I was quite honored that they asked me, but soon questioned that I was not the first on the list. The other boys had pulled territorial and were very insistent that this place remain a secret. So, I'm kinda torn on whether I want my beginner ass in an international magazine or prevent my surfboard from being burned. What would you do? I'll tell you my answer shortly. Hopefully with a good picture. Hopefully not of my surfboard being burned.

Take care and see you soon. And comment damnit! Let me know your out there or I'll put more naked pictures of me up. That'll learn ya!

Damn Vandals

Another act of vandalism on the island. I hope they get those little scrawny bastards. Ruining a perfectly good, and informative, sign. The tourists will be so confused now I'm sure.

It really was about time somebody did a little edit to the Tsunami signs. These are all over north island and justifyably so. We get warnings regularly and have a phone tree developed for the Tow Hill community for those of us without phone or TV.

This is the sign coming into town and on the way out of town they have 'Tsunami Evacuation Route' signs with the little dude holding onto his wife and kids and flying up the dump hill (apparently where we're supposed to go). I tell you what, if a tsunami hits here, first thing I'm doing is grabbing my wetsuit, and board and waiting. After seeing what happened with the Sri Lanka episode and from the limited tsunami experience I have here, I think the best place to be is on top of the water picking up the pieces. Just a thought.

Well, surf is finally back up. Today had some chest highs again which was really nice as it's been relatively flat for at least a week. The weather never ceases to amaze me as those huge winds were coming straight out of the south and ended up giving a wave right out of the north??? Wave dynamics are very interesting and I really get to appreciate the pure power of the wave and the wind and how they react to each other. One very powerful force reacting with an enormous volume to generate something sooo fun! Good times.

Well, all for now kids. Lots of stuff going on as usual. Hope you're all keeping busy and keeping warm in the phantom spring month. Summer is on it's way, as we can all tell. Just enjoy what you've got now and live in your present.

The wind totally blows

Well, another amazing weekend at Mount Moresby Adventure Camp. The crew heading down there every other weekend have really gel-ed into a nice fine tuned unit of outdoor perfection guided by our faithful leader Johnny! This weekends adventure was certainly no less than we expected with a canoe down the lake for a night in the bush. I wasn't quite sure why we left a perfectly good fire and a fridge full of sausages, but there was apparently a higher purpose.
John has been introducing us to the area, bush skills (starting a fire in the rain with no matches!) and it's beauty and this weekend was sure to make our lives a lot more fulfilled. Lets start off...
Friday night we show up, play some crib and go to bed... Sounds exciting eh? Personally, I could do this every friday night, but more stimulus wouldn't be bad.
Saturday AM - Of course Jo is up at 6 and breakfast at 8, lots of conversation and we're full-on schoolin'. Have you ever understood those little blobs of high pressure and low pressure? Me neither. Well, apparently they have pressure gradients. The tendancy is for areas of high pressure to move and replace the low pressure areas. This causes wind. Huh!!! Far out!! Ok, so you owe me a beer for this lesson. Anyways, after we had this incredibly productive lesson on the Alaskan Low and the reason we get pile driven by southwester wind we were off into the water.
An hour in, I catch a fish (of course)... and lose it... (of course)... I blame Johnny because just as he says 'don't lose it' what do I do... yes, of course, I lose it. no worries, we've got a loaf of bread rising in Jo's belly ( of course wrapped in plastic) and beans soaking in a water bottle. We're ok.
So we finally get to the end of the lake. Not a bad paddle a short 2 or 3 hour trip. We get set up and have a brief lesson in 'tarpology' (setting up a tarp). Very valuable, especially when it's 4 degrees and raining with 50knot winds expected that night. So, afterwards I go for another paddle and fish to see if I can find the monster I lost. Well, I caught it, kinda... When I arrive home, John's dog has swallowed my hook! I think his jinx of my fish caught up with us. So, here we are, at least 5 hours from a hospital, and nearly a half day from a vet (if they're in town). So, off he goes in a canoe, middle of the night... We all felt bad for this situation...
But it get's better... The dog, half way home, spits up the hook and johnny heads it back to camp! Yay! We're back together again. It's the middle of the night, and then when it's time to all start hugging each other in glee, the wind starts. And I'm not talking about a time to bring the kids out to fly a kite, it is (as predicted) well over 40 knot (close to 100km/hr) winds. The tarps, well put I must say, are ready to set sail. As we all migrate back to our tents and pray for these huge trees to not fall on us, we spend what I would deem as the least restfull sleep of my life. Man, do I ever love this place.
So, the morning brought about trees everywhere but on us which was a good thing. We made it back home with a crazy head wind and finally got in the cars to drive home... oops, forgot about that spruce across the road on the way out... ok, no big deal, we're used to that.
All in all, a crazy weekend again with the wind. There is really nothing like being kept awake by storm force winds whipping over your tent. Great thing is that this storm is going to flip up some crazy surf by wednesday. It's all coming up.
Stay cool kids and thanks for tuning in!

Rainforests are more often 'cloud forests'

Learning, and more learning

Looking for coho salmon, I think this pool might have one or two or 10 thousand!