Stoked

Well, surf has been an entire spectrum of swell from flat-fucking-calm to blown out, finishing off with crazy epic. Today's pic is actually one of the more mellow days with a nice 4 foot pushing in for a longboard sesh. This weekend saw 20+ surfers out for some of what we guess was 12 ft on the outside sessions. Surf shop has been really popular with the islanders which is nice. Lots of ladies out on the wave, hooping and hollorin'. Feeling really blessed to have so many waves these last 4 days of 3hr+ times in some frigid bliss. Time to stoke the fire... lots of stoke around here.