Tales from the wet side

So just a few shots to give a little more perspective on my life here on Haida Gwaii as a self-proclaimed beach bum. The first pic is a nice peeler about 6 foot. Next is a fun little ride in a short shore break and then of course the anticipation. This is my buddy 'surfer jeff'. I was laughing as I watched him run down the beach to the surf. EVERY surfer runs to the water. Without fail, if you watch the true surfers they all run as soon as they hit the sand. Not sure why, perhaps trying to get there first, trying to make sure you don't miss the waves. Both of these rationalle are silly because waves take hours to dissapear and around here... well only the seals are fighting you for the waves. And man, did we have a big sucker floating around us this last few days. We thought it was a sea lion from the size of it. It had a neck like a football player and as bad an attitude. The guy swam around me for hours yesterday and even came up within 10 feet to smash his hind flipper on the water and splash me... I'm not sure if he was playing or letting me know it was his kelp bed. I wonder if they think we're one of them or not. It is the season for the winter chinook to be running through here, so I'm guessing he was making sure we weren't in competition for lunch. And seeing the chunk that these guys take out of a salmon, I"m hoping my left leg isn't on the menu.... eeesh.

Speaking of which, apparently down island they had a sea lion (800lbs) walk right up on the beach and onto the road! They tried to shoo it back in the water, but after observation there was a pod of killer whales in the distance that had probably chased him in. Another wild time in the middle of nowhere.

Surfing has been up and down. It's been so-so surf lately, but I have seemed to really dial in. I'm riding a lot more face now and really getting my cutbacks and even landing a few huge airs off the waves. I've managed to really get some speed on the drops and even ran over another guy yesterday (he is always in the way). It was quite funny how I had explained to the boy about dropping in and then demonstrated, he was very attentive, so much so that he forgot to get the hell out of the way! He (with eyes wide) dives under the wave and throws his board right in front of me. I end up running over the board and now he's got a slice from my fin.

Speaking of posers... I've been asked to guide a bunch of professional surfers from 'Surfer' magazine who are visiting the islands next month to do a feature article on cold water surfing. I was quite honored that they asked me, but soon questioned that I was not the first on the list. The other boys had pulled territorial and were very insistent that this place remain a secret. So, I'm kinda torn on whether I want my beginner ass in an international magazine or prevent my surfboard from being burned. What would you do? I'll tell you my answer shortly. Hopefully with a good picture. Hopefully not of my surfboard being burned.

Take care and see you soon. And comment damnit! Let me know your out there or I'll put more naked pictures of me up. That'll learn ya!