Local's knowledge
Well today had to be one of the worst days on file and one of the best ones for sure. Let's start with an early rise - good. Getting lost on the way out of town - not so good. Spilling coffee all over the rental car and myself (twice) - not so good. Getting to surf and seeing beautiful chest high rollers - good. Having at least 50 rides, some of which overhead - good. Getting punched in the face by a local chick - not so good. For anyone aware of surf etiquette, first in the wave get's the wave, I didn't see the chick, dropped in and I believe it was 'fuck right off buddy (snap to the jaw). I've never been punched by a chick before, but she wasn't bad. Anyways, with the good surf so close to a big city, you're bound to get a lot of people showing up. I guess I"ve been spoiled by the charlottes and having the beach all to myself. It was insane today with 20 of us battling for a perfect right hander. I'm thinking about avoiding Jordan River tomorrow because it's just too damn crowded. I was warned about the territorial locals, but this was my first experience with it. Knowledge is power.
Well, that being said, yesterday was far out with the ugliest, gnarliest waves I've ever seen. I ended up going in anyways and took a bunch of short rides, but fun ones none the less. It's big swell time, but the wind just isn't co-operating. Yesterday's 110km, yes, 110km on shore was absolutely ugly, and it dropped entirely today which was better, but not great. Apparently they're calling for 32 foot waves on Thursday. I"m guessing I won't be participating in that session.
So all that said and done, I get stuck in traffic for an hour and a half with nothing on my mind but sushi, and low and behold, I can't find a sushi bar open at 6PM!! What the hell. So I order smelly chinese and it comes cold as witches tit and without any cutlery. I know, I know, bitch bitch. Screw it, I"m going to absorb these 2 beer I have left as quickly as my throat will allow and get to bed and forget about this one. I guess karma found me today. I gotta remember to do something for someone else tomorrow. Hope it's fun!

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