Tsunami Warning

I get a call at 6:23 AM notifying me that there is a tsunami warning for our area and the wave is going to hit at 9:50 AM. What do I do? Go back to bed and set the alarm for 9? Pack up my cat and drive for tow hill? Hell no, SURF!!! True story...
Jeff shows up at 9:30 (tsunami warning get's called off so I'm home) to tell me that the wave is going to be here in 20 minutes - surf's up! Well, I'm not too sure about this idea, but he isn't called 'surfer jeff' for nothing. Sure as the sun will come up tomorrow I slapped on my suit and grabbed my board and took off blindly to the Sangan River to see what was up. And it was up!!! I looked at him, the surf and then cried like a little girl getting an easy bake oven. It was hawaii huge. It was tahiti with an ice cream headache. 10 - 12 foot rollers coming in one after the other, after the other, after the other. And sure as hell the bohemith hit at about 10AM which was absolutely stellar. Well that wasn't it, the swell lasted as long as I did, which was about 4 hours in the freezing surf. I was beaten, battered and bruised. For some reason, on an epic surf day I ended up forgetting how to paddle and surf. I got absolutely blasted at every point trying to hit the break, but the rides I did get were huge overheads and loooong rides. Jeff barrelled out a couple times and must have took 50 rides overhead. Forever remembered as the day we rode the tsunami. What did you do yesterday? Challenge yourself and others everyday.