
Been a while since the blog update on a count of the damn crackbook. It just seems so much easier to update my pictures or videos and simply put my thoughts into a funny line or quip. Actually sitting down and enjoying the pathos of writing a direct thought in a descriptive way seems much better. Alas, here is the update... Todays pic is a crew of north beach surfers that got an invite to visit a remote island/sandbar off of the islands to surf for a spell. Turns out the day was flat as my first girlfriend and we ended up just sitting, watching well over 200 seals watching us. It was still a crazy feeling being up in this whirlybird and taking tight corners and just taking off and landing were such an experience. Sure enough the surf was up the very next day. A rare Westerly swell showed up and gave for ice blue barrels of 6 - 8 foot that just constantly ripped down the beach. Surfed 3 hours on saturday and 3 on sunday and we are just burnt with tired happy shoulders. Nice to get a little bit of summer swell with no hood on the suit and some big smiles for everyone. Thanks to Ben and Sam for a great trip.
1 Comments:
Ah, very cool! Gotta love helicopters - it's such a weird sensation, doesn't even feel real! Hope things are going well - you should be seeing Rich in the newxt couple of days, I think he's going across on Monday night. Wish I could too!!!
5:05 PM
Post a Comment
<< Home